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Wine
Reviews
Our reviews are a wholly subjective handy reference intended primarily for ourselves, but here it is in case you (or more likely we) want to look at them. This is our attempt to remember what we like, and what we don't, and why. As you'll see, it doesn't always work.
We have recently taken an interest in the wines, both new and historic, of the Campania region of Italy - the area around Napoli and Vesuvius. Here, and on the neighbouring islands, the Romans perfected traditions begun by the area's original Greek settlers, founding the roots of modern Italian wine making. You can read more about these on our Campania wines page. Several of the reviews of Campanian wines are also included below.
Please
scroll
down
for the full list, or check our wine
classifications page to see how the reviews are organised.
Cabernet
Sauvignon, Shiraz,
Hardy’s
Nottage Hill, South Eastern Australia, 1998
Red,
oaky-earthy rich and full, fruity and spicy mulled-wine-like taste. We
drank it with curry (twice) – an odd thing to do, but it was still
splendid.
Drunk:
London, 23/6/00 and London, 21/10/00
Quality:
5/6
Value
for money: 3/6
Drunkenness:
June: fun atmosphere but ultimately made us fall asleep in front of
Newsnight.
October: a lot of ranting about programme implementation failure in
social
policy... err, right.
Cabernet
Sauvignon, Shiraz,
Hardy’s
Nottage Hill, South Eastern Australia, 1999
Drunk:
London, 31 March 2001 (13%)
Red,
smooth and rich, oaky and fruity. Fabulous, easy drinking.
Perhaps better than the 1998 vintage.
Quality:
5/6
Value
for money: 5.5/6 (£5.50)
Merlot "Premier
Reserve",
Domaine Boyar, Iambul, Bulgaria, 1997
Drunk:
London, 31 March 2001 (12.5%)
Red medium-bodied, fruity,
on the acidic side but not a bad balance.
Quality:
3.5/6
Value
for money: 4.5/6 (£3.50)
Copertino Rosso, 1995
Francesco Colucci,
Martina
Franca, Puglia, Italy
Drunk: London, 9 July 2000
Red, light, mellow; dry
but not too dry. We liked this though we can't think of much to
say
about it.
Quality:
4/6
Value
for money: 4.5/6 (£6)
Drunkenness:
Slightly more fluid thinking but still sharp.
Shiraz
Cabernet, Rosemount Estate, South Eastern Australia, 1999 and 2000
www.rosemountestates.com
Drunk
Norwood, 4 November 2000
Fresh
fruity red, light but with a strong berry flavour and warm/sharp
alcohol
aftertaste.
Quality
4.5/6
Value
for money 4.5/6 (£6.80, Safeway)
Pinot Blanc d'
Alsace,
1996
Léon Bayer,
Eguisheim,
France
White,
sharp and acidic. Wine with a boozy flavour, good with chickpeas.
Drunk:
Cambridge, April 1999
Quality:
2.5/6
Value
for money: didn't pay
Drunkenness:
Very bad singing after half a bottle.
Saint-Véran,
1994
Domaine des Deux
Roches,
Les Chailloux, Bougogne, France
Drunk: Cambridge,
March 1999
White, smooth, not very
light. Good with carrots.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money: 4/6
(£7.20)
Coonawara
Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995
Wynn's
Coonawara Estate, Australia www.wynns.co.uk
Drunk:
n/k
Superb,
full-bodied, oaky and smoky, smooth tasking. 1995 was a great vintage,
later years said to be pretty good too.
Quality:
6/6
Value for money:
(didn't pay)
Shiraz,
Wynn's Coonawara Estate, Australia, 1997
www.wynns.co.uk
Drunk:
London 10 March 2001. 13.5%
Heavy,
strong, tart and spicy Shiraz.
Quality:
4.5/6
Value for money:
(didn't pay)
Chianti Classico "La
Pievaccia"
Ampelos, San Casciano,
Val di Pesa, Italy 1998
Drunk: London 10
March
2001 12.5%
Tart tasting up front,
perhaps
didn't travel well but fizzy, sharp/bitter tasting by the time we drank
it.
Quality: 2.5/6
Value for money: 2/6
(£4)
Fleurie, Grand Vin
du
Beaujolais, "Remart des Dames",
Petriarche Père
et Fils, Beaune, France 1999
Drunk: London, 25 February
2001
Very good, smooth mildly
fruity easy-drinking red.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money:
(didn't pay)
Pinot Noir, Sutter
Home,
Monteret County,
California
United States 1997
Drunk: London, 6 March
2001,
13%
Excellent smooth fruity
(cherry and black fruits, we thought) medium bodied boozy red.
Quality: 5/6
Value for money:
4.5/6
(£7)
Beaujolais, Domain
de
Vissoux,
Pierre-Marie Chermette,
69620 Saint-Vérand, France 1997
Drunk: London, 10 March
2001, 12%
The smoothest - delicious
fruity medium-bodied red. wonderful.
Quality: 5.5/6
Value for money (didn't
pay).
Chardonnay
'Catarratto',
1998
D'istinto, Calatrasi,
San Cipirello, Sicilia, Italy
Drunk: n/k
Rounded white, not crisp
enough to keep us happy. Strong like most Sicilian wines.
Nothing
to shout about. Would have been better had we been successful in
the Win A Vespa competition to which this purchase was linked.
Drunkenness: Dreamy
in a lively sort of way.
Quality:
2/6
Value for money:
3/6
Burgans
Albariño, 1999
Rias
Baixas, Dominacion de Orixe, Spain
Very
odd white. Don't buy again. Failed comprehensively at a social
occasion.
Very perfumed even though it has a dry texture. Not a good combination.
Drunk:
London, 15/7/00
Quality:
2/6
Value
for money: 2/6 (£7)
Drunkenness:
Too heavy, dulls rather than sharpens. Guests nearly danced to Madonna
(not in itself a bad thing).
Würzburger
Stein, Rieslaner, 1997
Bürgerspital
zum hL. Geist, Franconia, Germany
We
wouldn't normally have bought a German white, and more fool us. We
bought
this at the Bürgerspital in Würzberg, southern Germany, where
we had lunch. It's quite a strong, rounded sweet white, refreshing and
fruity.
Drunk:
London, 25/7/00
Quality:
4.5/6
Value
for money: 4.5/6 (£10)
Drunkenness:
relaxed and funny; quite sleepy; mixed some words without slurring.
Vermentino
di Sardegna, 1999
Sella e Mosca, Alghero,
Sardegna, Italy www.sellaemosca.com
Not
at all what we expected. Very light and very dry sharp white. Also very
slightly sparkling – not bubbling but just enough to taste. Refreshing,
though on the other hand there wasn't much body to it. Good for a hot
day.
Sella e Mosca isn't the best Vermentino, but probably the best the
Sardinians
are willing to export.
Drunk:
28/7/00
Quality:
4/6
Value
for money: 5/6 (£4.20)
Chardonnay,
South Eastern Australia, 1999
Marks
and Spencer
Medium
dry white, not a bad Chardonnay, strong taste and mellow aftertaste,
went
well with prawns.
Drunk:
22/7/00
Quality:
3.5/6
Nipozzano,
Chianti Rufina, 1996
Marchesi
de Frescobaldi, Via S. Spirito 11, 50125 Firenze, Italy
www.frescobaldi.it
Outstanding
Chianti, from an amazing estate at the centre of the region, using
apparently
selected Sangiovese grapes. Bold and fruity, but fresh and delicate.
Drunk:
Loughborough Junction, London, November 2002
Quality:
5/6
Value
for money: 4.5/6 (£10.50)
Chianti
Classico "Villa Antinori", 1998
Antinori,
Chianti, Italy
www.antinori.it
Very
good indeed. One of the best Chiantis.
Drunk;
London, People’s Palace, July 2000
Quality:
5.5/6
Value
for money: didn't pay
Falanghina, 1998
Feudi
di San Gregorio, Sorbo Serpico (AV), Italy
www.feudi.it
Drunk:
London 1/6/00
A
superb lightly dry white wine. Goes well with seafood and, er,
summer.
Quality:
5/6
Value
for money: 4/6 (£6.30)
Rully, 1987
Chateau de Rully,
Antonin
Rodet, Rully, France
Date: London, 29 May 2000
Goddamnit. This
"diffusion
exclusive" bottle from Sainsbury's had corked before we had a chance to
try it. The best we got from it was a helpful discussion on the
different
colours things turn when they oxidise, and why.
Quality: 0/6
Value for money: 0/6
Copertino
Rosso, 1995
Francesco
Colucci, Martina Franca, Puglia, Italy
Red,
light, mellow; we liked this though we can't think of much to say about
it. From Puglia, Colucci weren't mentioned by Larousse but it's a good
wine.
Drunk:
London 9/7/00
Quality:
4/6
Value
for money: 4.5/6 (£6)
Drunkenness:
Slightly more fluid thinking but still sharp.
Barelli
Creek, Cabernet Sauvignon 1995
Ernest and Julio Gallo,
Barelli Creek, Sooma County, California, United States
www.gallo.com
Drunk: London, 27
October 2000
A full-bodied red.
Oaky, rich and fruity. One of the tastiest we've tried.
(vastly
better than Gallo's regular 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, also reviewed.)
Quality: 5.5/6
Value for money:
4.5/6
(£10)
Turning Leaf
Zinfandel,
1996
Ernest and Julio Gallo,
Modesto, California, United States
www.gallo.com
Drunk: London, 27
October 2000
Medium-bodied red, rich
mix of berries and spices. Perhaps a bit over the top, but
might be good with strong flavoured dishes.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money:
3.5/6
(£7.50)
Shiraz,
Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999
Hardy’s,
Stamp of Australia, South Eastern Australia
Rich
fruity-boozy smelling red; rich flavour but not the best. Quite
acidic,
very alcoholic but oddly without much body. Lousy with tomatoes,
but went curiously well with mango. Not a great hit overall.
Drunk:
London 27 May 2000
Quality:
2/6
Value
for money: 1/6
Drunkenness:
Too appalled to say.
Cabernet Sauvignon,
Valdivieso,
Central Valley, Chile, 1998
Went down so well we can't
remember a thing about this. We think we liked it, and fortunately we
have
another bottle to try.
Minervois, Abbot's
Cumulus
Shiraz, 1998
Abbott Sneyd Anderson,
France
Very good red, again we
can't remember much about it, so we'll have to try again.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money:
Didn't
pay
Bardolino,
Cielo, Montorso, Italia 1999
Drunk:
Torre Annunziata 1/10/00
Pleasant
light red
Goes
well with: Veal, beef steak
Quality:
4.5
Value
for money: 5.5 (£1.40, Italy)
Lacryma
Christi del Vesuvio, Mastroberadino, Atripalda (AV), Campania, Italy
1999
www.mastro.it
Drunk:
Positano, 29/9/00
Nice
red, celebrated locally, but we found this one lacked subtlety without
the more complex flavours of other local red wines. (But the
white
version is wonderful.)
Goes
well with: Beef (though we drank this with pasta and seafood, which
seemed
a wise choice in Positano).
Quality:
4
Value
for money: 4 (£10, Italy, restaurant)
Fiano
di Avellino 'Radici', Mastroberadino, Atripalda (AV), Campania,
Italy
1999
www.mastro.it
Drunk:
Positano, 28/9/00
Delicious
dry but rich white, with hints of fruit (pear and hazelnut, according
to
the label). One of the region's oldest and best (see also
listing
for Fiano di Avellino itself). Radici (for cultural 'roots') is the
version
'relaunched' by Mastroberadino and is made with specially selected
grapes.
Goes
well with: Antipasti, fish, shellfish
Quality:
5.5
Value
for money: 5 (£13, Italy, restaurant/£5.30, Italy )
Aglianico
'Rubrato', Feudi di San Gregorio, Sorbo Serpico (AV), Italy 1997
www.feudi.it
Drunk: London,
25/11/00
Powerful rounded solid
red,
but with a light fruity taste on top, and hints of vanilla. Good,
though not San Gregorio's best.
Went not so well with
risotto,
but would be great with heavier red meats.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money: 4/6
(£6.49)
Greco di Tufo,
Mastroberadino,
Atripalda (AV), Campania, Italy 1999
www.mastro.it
Drunk: Napoli,
15/5/00
Our favourite white - dry,
crisp and refreshing, a subtle tangy lingering aftertaste.
Quality:
5.5/6
Value
for money: 6/6 (£5, Italy; £11.50 London)
Fiano
di Avellino , Mastroberadino, Atripalda (AV), Campania, Italy 1999
www.mastro.it
White.
One of the oldest wines in constant production, it take its name from
Pliny's
description 'apiano' after the Roman bees who made these grapes
their
favourite.
Value
for
money: (£5.30, Italy)
Falerno
del Massico, Villa Matilde, Cellole (Monte Massico), Caserta, Italy 1998
www.fattoriavillamatilde.com
Drunk:
London 17/11/00
Red.
Pleasant oaky-fruity flavours, medium acidity, delicate and light for a
stronger fuller bodied wine.
Went
well with pasta and peas, but would also be good with heavy red meats
and
sauces.
Quality:
5/6
Value
for money: 5/6 (£3.85, Italy)
Cabernet
Sauvignon, Wolf Blass, 1999
Drunk:
London 11/10/00
Red,
quite fruity and fuller bodied. Not at all bad, and a real relief
after Wolf Blass' widely praised yet dreadful white.
Quality:
4/6
Value
for money: (didn't pay).
Cabernet Sauvignon,
Ernest
and Julio Gallo, Modesto, California, United States 1999
www.gallo.com
Drunk: London,
10/10/00
Red. Rose-tasting
and light, but acidic and bitter. We didn't like this at
all.
Bad with (and without) chicken. (See also Gallo's much better Barrelli
Creek Cabernet Sauvignon)
Quality: 3/6
Value
for money: 2.5/6 (£5)
Beaujolais Gamay,
Louis
Jadot, Chateau de Jacques, Moulin a Vent, Beaujolais, Burgandy, France
1998
Drunk: London, 27
October 2000
Fruity red, but so subtle
it was simply weak tasting and bland - not the full and robust taste it
claims.
Quality: 1.5/6
Value
for money: 1/6 (c.£7.50)
Fleurie, Cru du
Beaujolais,
Les Roches du Vivier - Domaine Berrod, Fleurie (Rhône), France
1997
Drunk: London, 15/10/00
Sublime red. Subtle
smooth, light, fruit flavours balanced with barely perceptible
acidity.
Wonderful.
Quality: 6/6
Value for money:
Didn't
pay (but
let us know if you know
how to get more)
Verdicchio dei
Castelli
di Jesi, 'Selva Torta', Umani Ronchi, Osimo, Italy 1999
www.umanironchi.it
Drunk: London,
17/10/00
Dry as a bone, smooth and
refreshing.
Quality: 4.5/6
Value for money: 4/5
(£5.50)
Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo,
Umani Ronchi, Osimo, Italy 1999
www.umanironchi.it
Drunk: Bertorelli's,
London, 19/10/00
Rich red with body,
fruity,
warm and smooth.
Went unexpectedly well
with
sardines and salad in this case - but would be wonderful with red meats.
Quality: 4.5/6
Value for money 5/6
(£14, restaurant)
Chablis
Prèmier
Cru, Domaine Laroche “Les Fourchaumes”, 89800 Chablis, France
1998.
12.5%
www.domainelaroche.com
Drunk: London June
2001
From the Fourcharme
vineyard,
a solid, tasty dry white, both sharp and delicately fruity at the back
of the mouth. A but like a more delicate Greco di Tufo, and
without
the slightly tangy/acid aftertaste. Excellent stuff.
Quality: 4/5
VFM (£5): 5/5
Chablis
Prèmier
Cru, Chateau de Maligny “Fourchaume”, Jean Durup père et fils,
Domaine
de l’ Églantière, Maligny, 89800 Chablis, France 1997
Drunk: London June
2001.
Delicate dry white, crisp
, subtly fruity aroma and aftertaste. From the smaller vineyard
at
Fourchaumes of one of Chablis’ largest but most traditional producers.
Quality: 4.5
VFM: (Didn’t pay).
Bourgogne
Ponot Noir, "Beaucharme", Louis Max, Nuits Saint Georges, France, 1999.
(12.5%)
Drunk: London, June
2001
Very good red. Warm
and oaky, mildly fruity but not too spicy.
Quality: 4.5/6
Value for money: 4/6
(£7)
Rèmole,
Marchesi
de Frescobaldi, Sieci, Firenze,Toscana, Italia 2000.
(12.5%)
Smooth oaky tasty but
light
red.
Drunk London 22 October
2001, London 11 January 2002
Quality: 4/5
Value
for money: 4/5 (£5.59)
Pinot Noir
"Inniskillin",
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara Peninsula, Canada, 1999. (11.5%)
Light, soft, dry red wine,
with a cherry taste. Quite nice, well done Canada, for a change.
Went well with: MC Solaar.
Drunk London 20 September
2000
Quality: 3/5
Value
for money: didn't pay
Shiraz Cabernet,
Rosemount
Estate, Australia 2000. (13%)
Drunk London, October 2001
Smells like kirsch, and
first taste is like kirsch, with a mellow spicy aftertaste. Spice and
berry-flavoured
medium bodied red.
Quality: 3.5/5
Value
for money: (£6.50) 3.5/5
Cabernet Merlot,
Rosemount
Estate, South Eastern Australa, 2001 (n/k)
www.rosemountestates.com
Drunk: London, November
2002
Smooth full bodied red
with
quite a light flavour of red cherries and berries.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money: 4/6
(£6)
Chateau Coufran,
France
1996, 1997
Drunk London, September
2001
Solid but subtle
oak-flavoured
high-quality red. Both vintages superb.
Quality: 4.5/5
Value
for money: 4/5 (£11)
Verdicchio dei Castelli
di Jesi classico superiore "Villa Bianchi", Umani Ronchi, Osimo, Italy
2000 (13%)
Drunk London, October 2001
So why did we think this
was good last year? Acidic, unsubtle, almost fizzy white, quite
bizzare.
Quality: 2/6
Value
for money: 1/6 (£5.99)
Barbera d'Asti
Superore
'Albera', Araldica Vini Pemontesi,Cantne di Castelboglione, Italy; 2000
(13.5%)
Drunk: London June 2002
Robust smokey-dark fruit
wine with full body and boozyness but rounded off with substantial
chunks
of oak. Pretty good, esp with red meats.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money: (didn't
pay)
Pinot Noir,
Valdvieso,
Central Valley, Chile, 1998 (13%)
Warm but sharp acidic red,
not bad but not much subtlety of flavour or texture.
Drunk London
November
2001
Quality: 2.5/6
Value
for money: 3.5/6 (£4.95)
Merlot-Cabernet
Sauvignon,
El Baraka Private Reserve, Beni M'Tir, Cépages de Meknés,
Meknés, Morocco 1999 (13%)
www.castel-freres.fr
Drunk London
November
2001
Nice mellow berry-tasting
red. Balanced sharp taste but smooth texture too.
Quality: 3.5/6
Value
for money: 4/6 (£4.99)
Merlot, vin de pays
d'Oc,
Baron Philippe de Rothschild, 33250 Gironde, France, 2000
(13%)
Drunk London
November
2001
Tasty but acidy red, not
too smooth but easy-drinking stuff.
Quality: 3.5/6
Value
for money: 4/6 (£3.99)
Look out also for
Chablis
Prèmier Cru from…
- Laroche’s Chablis
St-Martain;
- Long-Depaquit (try
Fourchaume
and L’homme mort),
- the classic “La
Chablisienne”,
from Chablis’ local producers’ co-operative.
Shiraz, Kalimna Bin
28,
Australia 1998 (14.5%)
Penfolds Wines, Penfold
Road, magill, South Australia, Australia 5072
www.penfolds.co.uk
Drunk: London,
December
2001
Full flavoured but subtle
spicy red, this is an outstanding, good value Shiraz from Penfolds.
Quality 4/6
Value
for money: 5/6 (£7)
Cahors,
Château
Saint Didier-Parnac, France 2000 (12.5%)
F et J Rigal, Chateau
Saint Didier-Parnac, Parnac, Lot, France
Drunk: London,
December
2001
Smooth, oaky quality red.
Quality 4/6
Value
for money: Didn't pay
Corbières,
Curvee
Château Ollieux Romanis, France 1999 (12.5%)
Good quality, slightly
spicy/acid
but balanced to give a smooth feel.
Drunk: London,
December
2001
Quality 3.5/6
Value
for money: Didn't pay
Haut-Medoc, Chateau
Barreyres,
cru Bourgeois, Arcins, Gironde, France, 1999 (12.5%)
Drunk: London, February
2002
Outstanding, rich fruity
red with a rounded chocolate-like texture.
Quaity: 5/6
Value for money:
(£10.49):
4.5/6
Fiano di Avellino
"Pietracalda",
Feudi di San Gregorio, Sorbo Serpico, Italy, 2000. (13.5%)
www.feudi.it
Drunk: London, 25
February 2002
Outstanding bold
gold-coloured
dry white wine. Strong fruit and vanilla favour, with a rounded
rich
aftertaste. This was like drinking gold. Highly-rated by
Gambero
Rosso, who claim it tastes of cakes. We didn't spot that.
Gorgeous
in any case..
Quality: 5.5/6
Value for money:
(£11),
5/6
Shiraz/Merlot,
Arniston
Bay, Western Cape A371, South Africa, 2000 (13.5%)
Drunk: February 2002
Full-bodied, smoth,
red wine. Strong taste of berries, hint of chocolate and
mildly
peppery taste.
Quality: 4.5/6
Value for money: 5/6
(£5.20)
Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo
"Selva Torta", Umani Ronci, SS 16, km 310+400 74, 60027 Osimo, Italy
1998
(13%)
www.umanironchi.it
Drunk: London 1 March 2002
Bld full-bodied red.
Oaky but also fruity and acidic, refreshing but without much texture or
bounce.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money 3.5/5
(£8)
Haut-Medoc,
Chateau Barreyres, cru Bourgeois, Arcins, Gironde, France, 1999
(12.5%)
Drunk:
London, February 2002
Outstanding, rich
frity red with a rounded chocolate-like texture..
Quaity: 5/6
Value for money:
(£10.49):
4.5/6
Fiano
di Avellino "Pietracalda", Feudi di San Gregorio, Sorbo Serpico, Italy,
2000. (13.5%)
www.feudi.it
Drunk: London, 25
February 2002
Outstanding bold
gold-coloured
dry white whine. Strong fruit an vanilla favour, with a rounded
rich
aftertaste. This was like drinking gold. Highly-rated by
Gambero
Rosso, who claimed it tasted of cakes. We didn't spot that.
Gorgeous
in any case.
Quality: 5.5/6
Value for money:
(£11),
5/6
Shiraz/Merlot,
Arniston
Bay, Western Cape A371, South Africa, 2000 (13.5%)
Drunk: February 2002
Full-bodied, smooth, red
wine. Strong taste of berries, hint of chocolate and mildly
peppery
taste.
Quality: 4.5/6
Value for money: 5/6
(£5.20)
Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo
"Selva Torta", Umani Ronci, SS 16, km 310+400 74, 60027 Osimo, Italy
1998
(13%)
Drunk: London 1 March 2002
Bold full-bodied
red.
Oaky but also fruity and acidic, refreshing but without much texture or
bounce.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money 3.5/5
(£8)
Albariño
'Burgàns',
Bodegas Martín Códax, Val do Salués, Rias Baixs,
Spain,
2001
Drunk: London, 4 May 2002
Good quality, full
bouquet,
and too fruity for our taste. Dryish, but at the Chardonnay
end with a sweet edge. OK with fish, but dryer would have been better .
Quality: 4/6
Value for
money(£7.80):
2.5/6
Hardy’s Grenache
Shiraz,
2000 (11%)
Drunk: London,
January
2002
Extremely light red.
Tasted fine, mildly cherryish, but unsettling lack of body – in fact
none
at all. A bit like water with a drop of wine added. In fact
why not just do that? Probably refreshing on a hot day, which
this
wasn’t.
Quality: 2/6
Value for money: 3/6
(£3.59)
Haut-Médoc,
Château
Barreyres Cru Bourgeois, Société Civile du Château
Barreyres Propriétaire, Arcins, Gironde, France 1998
(12½%)
Drunk: London, January 2002
Splendid full bodied
red.
Very dry, smooth mildly oaky, blended Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
grapes.
Excellent value for money, very good with red meats.
Quality: 4½/6
Value for money:
5½/6
(£6)
Chenin Blanc "Vinum
Africa",
Stelllenbosch, South Africa 2002.
(13.5%)
Drunk: London November 2002
Crisp and opal-fruit-like,
but a bit too sweet for us and cloying aftertaste.
Quality: 2.5/6
Value for money:
2.5/6
(£6, Oddbins exclusive)
Vina Sol, Miguel
Torres,
Vilafranca del Penedes, Barcelona, Spain, 2001 (11.5%)
Drunk: London, December
2001
A real treat, excellent
value high quality dry white, with refreshing and crisp fruit (apple)
tastes.
Apparently a classic Catalonian white, this was a real treat.
Went well with: fish,
turkey,
mince pies
Quality: 4.5/6
VFM: 5/6 (£4.99)
Grenache Shiraz,
Jacob's
Creek, Orlando Wines, Barossa Valley Way, Rowland Flat, South Eastern
Australia,
2002. (14%)
Drunk: London, January 2003
Disappointingly bland and
tart in-your-face red.
Quality: 3/6
VFM: 3/6 (£3.99)
Cannonau di
Sardegna,
Riserva, Sella e Mosca, Alghero, Sardegna, Italy, 1998 (13.5%)
www.sellaemosca.com
Drunk: london, February
2003
Splendid, robust, flowery
and fruity red. Excellent with red meat.
Quality: 4.5/6
VFM: 4/6 (£8.99)
Cannonau di
Sardegna,
Azienda Vinicola Cardedu, Jerzu, Sardegna, Italy, 1999 (14%)
Drunk: London, May 2003
Disappointingly lifeless
but full bodied Cannonau with a sharpish taste.
Quality: 2.5/6
VFM: 2.5/6
Valpolicella
Classico
Superiore "Capital dei Nicalò"; Agricola Fratelli Tedeschi,
Pedemonte,
Verona, Italy, 1999 (12.5%)
Drunk: London, May 2003
Subtly fruity, slightly
acidic but rather dull red.
Quality: 3/6
Value for money: 3/6
(£5.50)
Vernaccia di San
Gimignano,
Casa Vinicola Luigi Cecchi e Figli, Castellina in Chianti, RI2-S1,
Toscana,
Italy, 2000 (12%)
Drunk: London, May 2003
Fresh, crisp dry white;
slightly smoky taste. Went well with fish and pasts.
Quality: 3.5/6
Value for money: 3.5/6
(£5.70)
Sidi Salem,
Famìlia
Zarrouk (Accademia del Sole), Carignon, Tunisia, 2000 (14%)
Drunk: London, May 2003
Strong, dryish red, aroma
similar to port, strong bodied, and would stand up in a fight with
strong-flavoured
foods. We on the other hand fell down after just a few glasses of
14% alcohol. However, rather a dull taste, not remotely lively and
leaves
no lingering taste in the mouth.
Quality: 3/6
Value for money: 3/6
(£5)
Lettere
della Penisola Sorentina, Cantine Grotta del Sole, via Spinelli, 2,
80010
Quarto (NA), Italy, 2002 (11%)
www.grottadelsole.it
Drunk: Torre Annunziata,
June 2003
A traditional wine from
the Sorento Peninsular. This is one of several local varieties dating
from
Roman times, largely forgotten until recently, which Grotta del Sole
have
been researching and reviving in collaboration with the University of
Naples.
It's a great surprise to find it that fizzes! Usually served
cold,
this is a refreshing, light tasting wine. Bubbles in red wine are
extremely strange, but a clear fresh taste when you get used to
it.
Just what you need in the great heat of a Neapolitan summer on the
coast.
Quality: 3½/6
Value for money: 4/6
(£3.00,
bought in Napoli)
Falerno del Massico
Primitivo,
Michael Moio, vialle Regina Margherita, 8134 Mondragone (CE) Italy, 2000
(14½%)
Drunk: London July 2003
Full bodied, strong,
fresh,
fruity red; nicely combining a fresh citrus acidic taste with a dry
flavour
and aftertaste.
Went well with: Fantastic
with beef.
palate.
Quality: 5/6
Value for money:
5½/6
(£5.00, bought in Napoli)
Gragnano della
Penisola
Sorentina, Cantine Grotta del Sole, via Spinelli, 2, 80010 Quarto (NA),
Italy, 2002 (11%)
www.grottadelsole.it
Drunk: London July 2003
Robust-tasting light and
fizzy texture, with strong grape-juice flavour; slightly tangy even
leathery
(from newly fermented grape skins?). Unlike anything else we've tried,
a more distinctive, stronger taste than its sibling, Lettere.
Fresh, served at 10-12oC.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money:
4½/6
(£3, bought in Napoli)
Côtes du
Rhône,
Châse du Pape Réserve, Grands Vins de Girondas, Girondas,
France 2002
Drunk: London, September
2003
A slightly vinigary, dry
flavourless wine, without body or shape. Slightly flowery
aftertaste.
Almost but not quite utterly fowl.
Quality: 2/6
Value for money: 2/6
(£5)
Rosso Veronese
'Regolo',
Casa Vinicola Sartori, via Casette 2, 37024 Negrar, Verona, Italia 1999
(13%)
www.sartorinet.com
Rounded red with tangy
warm
fruity flavour and plenty of body, sweetly acidic aftertaste.
Ripasso
used to fortify it using lees from Sartori's illustrious single-bichere
Amarone.
Quality: 4½/6
Value for money:
4/6
(£7)
Cabernet Sauvignon
'The
Tower', Charles Back, Coastal Region, South Africa 1998 (13½%)
Rich, strong red.
Warm with body and soft aftertaste.
Quality: 4½/6
Value for money: Didn't
pay
Côtes du
Rhone,
Brézème, Curvée Eugéne de Monicault,
Jean-Marie
Lombard, Livron, Drôme, France; 1997.
Drunk: Islington, January
2003
Dull, characterless shiraz
tasting of leather and tobacco, which generally we don't drink.
Quality: 2/6
Value for money: 1/6
Lettere Gragniano,
Cantine
Grotta del Sole, via Spinelli 2, 80010 Quarto (NA), Italia 2002
(11%)
www.grottadelsole.it
Drunk Torre Annunziata,
December 2003
Less sparking than the
traditional
Lettere, this version is still slightly fizzy red. Quite robust,
slightly
leathery, but refreshing without the shock of the full fizz.
Quality 3/6
Value for money
3½/6
(€4.50, Torre Annunziata)
Ramada, Vinho
Regional
Estremadura, José Neiv para DFJ Vinhos Lda, 2070-512, Portugal,
2002 (11½%)
Drunk: London, February
2004
This was apparently the
IWC Red Wine of the Year in 1999, and though not scoring quite as well
in awards, it is still an impressive smooth, fruity and fresh red, very
easy drinking because it's not course and has a clean, non-acidic
aftertaste.
Quality: 4½/6
Value for money:
5½/6
(£6)
Lettere del Penisola
Sorrentina,
Cantine Grotta del Sole, via Spinelli 2, 80010 Quarto (NA), Italia
2002
(11%)
www.grottadelsole.it
Drunk: Torre Annunziata,
June 2003
Well bless my soul, a
fizzy
red. Lettere ia a traditional red from Campagnia, one of several
varieties revived recently by Grotta del Sole following years of
oenologial
researc and experimantation. It is best drunk cold, though we
didn't.
It was nevertheless refreshing on an unreasonably hot day.
Unusually
full flavoured for a light red, tasting of cherries and blackcurrants,
yet clean and fresh. Just what we needed.
Quality: 4/6
Value for money: (€5.50):
4/6:
Falanghina dei Campi
Flegri,
Cantine Grotta del Sole, via Spinelli 2, 80010 Quarto (NA), Italia
2002
(12½%)
www.grottadelsole.it
Drunk Mergellina, Napoli,
January 2004
Light, crisp version of
this subtley fruity white. Clean and fresh aftertaste. We rate this
among
the best.
Quality 5/6
Value for money
5½/6
(usually c. €5.50 in Napoli)
Pomino Rosso,
Castello
di Pomino, Marchese di Frescobaldi, Italy 1999 (12½%)
Drunk: London, February
2004
Oaky, strong and
smooth.
Good with lamb.
Quality: 4½/6
Value
for money: 4½/6
(£7)
Quartodisole, Cantine
Grotta del Sole, via Spinelli 2, 80010 Quarto (NA), Italia 2002
(11%)
www.grottadelsole.it
Rich, warm oaky-fruity smell
with hint of vanilla. Dry citrus fruit taste; dry rough
aftertaste.
Quality: 3/6
Value for money: 4/6
(€5, Napoli)
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